Hi everyone! Hope you’re all taking care of yourselves and staying safe!
Since I last wrote to you England has gone into lockdown - a softer lockdown than in March, but pretty serious restrictions all the same. As expected, when your world shrinks dramatically your sense of normality becomes distorted along with it. A trip to the grocery store is suddenly the perfect opportunity to dress up (or shower). A person knocking on the door to drop off a parcel becomes the social event of the season. Personally, I’ve lucked out by having an unexpectedly eventful week. For starters, I was notified by my bank that I might be the victim of credit card fraud! I gave them a call, anticipating a complex case of identity theft that I would have to solve by enlisting the help of my true-crime savvy friends. Annoyingly, it wasn’t anything quite so juicy. Apparently me trying to spend half of my life’s savings on cookbooks and candy at midnight on a Wednesday was “suspicious” and “extremely erratic” activity (direct quote). I would like to publicly state that those comments felt pointed and completely unwarranted. I have launched an official inquiry into whether or not my bank has been in direct contact with my therapist, as their remarks seemed a liiittle too on the nose for my liking.
In other news, I had to visit my dentist this week (I told you, it was an eventful one). I broke off a sizeable piece of my back molar when eating six, I mean one, of my homemade, salted dark chocolate chunk cookies. I went to the dental office for an exam and after a few minutes of inspecting my teeth my dentist asked: “would you say that you have a highly acidic diet?” I silently contemplated this for a moment. She pressed on: “Things like vinegar, lemon, tomato.” I could feel my cheeks warming. I started shifting uncomfortably in the reclined chair, adjusting those clunky, embarrassing glasses they make you put on: “No. Well. A bit... Okay, yes... Yes. I mean, I’m Italian. So... balsamic vinegar, lemon, tomato. That’s basically the Holy Trinity.”
Fortunately, my dentist expertly quelled my nerves and cut me off from spiralling any further. We agreed that this was not the best moment for me to radically change my diet (or have a subsequent identity crisis), so we continued on with the exam. The good news though is that I’ve got another exciting week ahead! I’ll have to return to the dentist for my filling next Thursday and maybe, just maybe, I’ll have another meltdown while I’m there. A bit of excitement to help spice up the month.
PODCASTS
1. “Why Do We Cry” by Every Little Thing
In 2020 crying is the new laughing because… it’s 2020 (That’s it. That’s the explanation). But have you ever wondered why you cry? Or worry that you cry too much? If so, this is the episode for you! “Why Do We Cry” by Every Little Thing is a genuinely funny and light-hearted listen, with surprising and (if you’re a crier) comforting insights from experts who have been researching the science of crying for decades. As one psychologist notes in the episode:
Crying is a language...The function of crying is all about communication and it’s a very powerful, strong signal. It’s also a signal that is relatively hard to fake, so it’s a reliable signal and that’s why it has so much impact on others.”
I’ve only recently learned about Every Little Thing but I am fully hooked. In each episode, listeners leave a voicemail on the ELT “Help Line” asking their weird and wild questions, and host Flora Lichtman answers them in her signature witty and accessible style. While topics range widely from “Is Your Pet a Righty or a Lefty” to “Can Cursing Make You Stronger,” it is always interesting and entertaining. Now go have a listen (and maybe a cry - we’re nearly at the end of 2020, you’ve earned it).
2. Partners
After floating on my frighteningly long “To Listen” list for the past six months, I finally got around to giving Partners a try and it was delightful! It’s created by the talented and prolific podcaster and composer Hrishikesh Hirway, the man responsible for big hits including The West Wing Weekly and the hugely successful podcast Song Exploder (which was recently adapted into a Netflix series).
The premise of the show is simple: “two partners tell their shared story: how they found each other, and what it took to make their partnership work”. It explores the beauty and messiness of collaborating with another human and its enormous creative potential. Interviews I especially enjoyed include the chef and author Samin Nosrat’s partnership with illustrator Wendy MacNaughton, Instagram Co-founders Kevin Systrom & Mike Krieger and the identical twin sister musical duo, Tegan Quin & Sara Quin.
3. On Things We Left Behind
On Things We Left Behind is a stunning podcast by sisters Surer and Saredo Mohamed that, in their own words, “traces the hidden afterlives of war on those who lived through it and on those who make sense of it in the aftermath.“ In 2019 they took home first place in the LaunchPod competition. They won professional production and marketing support for their series, which was released this past August.
If you only have time to listen to one thing this week, please let it be “The Parts We Don’t Share,” a profoundly striking episode that pushes back on mainstream narratives and calls into question the extractive nature of asking a refugee about their “story”. In this episode they speak to Alice, a storyteller, scholar, and mother who arrived to Canada after surviving the Rwandan genocide. As Alice shares:
When people say “tell us your story” they’re not asking me where my Grandfather had his 30 cows... They want you to fast forward to the “juicy” bits.
…
I think it’s important, as a storyteller, to reflect on the bigger picture. Not to change the story, but to make sure that when you’re telling it, it actually has a purpose that is beyond satisfying the natural curiosity of the audience.
Overall, On Things We Left Behind is an intimate, thoughtful and beautifully crafted series and I cannot recommend it enough!
4. The Culture is Black
*Cue shameless plug*
I spent the summer helping produce a new podcast called The Culture is Black and the first episode dropped last week! At its core, this show is dedicated to spotlighting Black talent across creative sectors. In each episode guests share their own experiences, as well as reflect on the impact the pandemic and the Black Lives Matter mobilisation has had on their respective fields. The first episode dives into the current state of the music industry with insights from BBC 1Xtra DJ Jamz Supernova and No Signal Radio’s Jojo Sonubi!
*End shameless plug*
FOOD
As luck would have it, my birthday falls squarely in the middle of this second lockdown. When the city shut down earlier this year I felt terrible for those with birthdays in March and April, but admittedly I was also pretty damn smug thinking to myself: “at least I’ll be in the clear come November”. Aside from this experience single-handedly confirming to me that karma is indeed very real, I’ve also had to adjust my expectations for this birthday. Now, before I run with this joke any further, let me emphasise that it is just that: a joke! In the grand scheme we know that this is silly to complain about. We’re in the midst of a global pandemic and public safety is paramount, always. Anyway, just wanted to clarify this. I will now continue being dramatic and petty (coincidentally, this is the title of my forthcoming memoir).
In an effort to drum up attention, I’ve started exclusively referring to my birthday as a “pity party”. And boy let me tell you, it has done the trick. Everyone feels awful for me and is trying to assuage their own guilt and discomfort by giving me presents. Have these gifts been sent out of pity? Yeah. Do I care? No. As someone whose identity, and dare I say personality, is intimately tied to being the baby of the family, I am absolutely revelling in the attention. But what does any of this have to do with a recipe? Well, for the last three years I’ve celebrated my birthday by going out for an intimate dinner with the people I love at my favourite Italian restaurant in London, and before that, an Italian spot in Toronto. Obviously that’s not an option this year, but I’d still like to uphold the tradition of celebrating another trip around the sun with fresh, homemade pasta. So, that’s today’s recipe: pasta!
If you’re in possession of a pasta machine (which I am very lucky to have), this makes the process a whole lot easier, but if not, don’t worry! You can still make delicious pasta without any of the fancy equipment, which is what I will show you how to do. Earlier this year I tried all sorts of recipes: different egg to flour ratios, dividing egg yolks from whites, sprinkling in salt, adding oil, not adding oil… needless to say it got confusing. I felt so flustered, but intuitively I knew it just couldn’t be this fussy. People have been making pasta for centuries, it can’t be that difficult. So, I went back to the basics: I found Youtube videos of Nonnas making pasta, and many of them followed the same rule of thumb: about 100g of flour for every 1 egg. (Note: 100g flour + 1 egg roughly works out to be one serving. Scale up depending on how many people you’re cooking for / how hungry you are). So, below is a very pared down, simple egg pasta. I’m certainly no expert, and there are many varieties of flour and countless types of pasta you can make. This is just one way. It’s a great option if this is your first foray into the homemade pasta world, and it's worked well for me so I have a hunch it’ll work for you too!
Ingredients:
100g 00 flour (this can be found at many large grocery stores in Canada and the UK! Also, I don’t use cup measurements when I make pasta, but it should be about ¾ cup of 00 flour)
1 large egg
Method:
In a bowl or on a flat work surface, add your 100g of flour and make a well in the centre.
Crack your egg into the well and use a fork to gently whisk it until smooth. Slowly begin to incorporate the flour from the walls, just a little at a time.
At the point it becomes difficult to continue using the fork, switch to using your hands and bring it all together until combined.
Turn the dough out on a floured surface and begin kneading. Don’t be discouraged at first! You might wonder how the mess in front of you could possibly turn into a supple dough but it will - just keep going! I like to use the heel of my hand and do the “roll and fold method” (see below) but if you can’t figure it out just keep squashing and stretching it (warning: it’s quite a workout). You should knead for about 7 minutes, but really you’ll be able to tell when it’s done because the dough will be pliable, smooth and gorgeously silky.
Flatten the dough into a disk and wrap it in cling film / plastic wrap (or a sustainable alternative). Let the dough rest for at least 30 minutes to allow the gluten to relax (you’ll have more pliable dough that way and it will make it easier to roll without it springing back).
Grab a rolling pin and dust it, the work surface and your dough with flour. Begin rolling out the dough. This is the part where having a pasta machine makes life easier, but it is still absolutely doable with a rolling pin (just requires a bit of elbow grease). If you’ve scaled up the recipe, cut your dough into sections and work with smaller pieces at a time to make it easier (make sure to cover the sections you haven’t yet rolled so they don’t dry out).
As for the desired thickness, that will depend on what type of pasta you’re making. I learned of a beautiful phrase that says it should be thin enough to “read a love letter through.” Now that’s pretty thin - and genuinely tricky to do manually - so as long as you can see your fingers through it that should be fine.
Once you’re happy with the thickness, fold the dough over itself a few times (see below) and use a knife to cut it into the shape you want (tagliatelle is a personal favourite). You might want to dust it with some extra flour before you fold to prevent unwanted sticking.
Finally, bring a pot of salted water to a boil, throw the pasta in and cook it for just a few minutes (this can vary so just have a taste as you go to see). Unlike dried pasta it will cook very quickly! Add whatever sauce you’d like (I’ve got some recommendations below) and enjoy that post-carb overload bliss.
So that’s it! A lot easier than you might have thought! Now don’t get me wrong, I’ve had plenty of failed attempts in the past, and it took me a while to get accustomed to and comfortable with the process. But it’s always worth it — there is nothing quite as satisfying as making your own pasta! As for sauces, I have a few suggestions. My go-to is aglio, olio e peperoncino (which I lovingly refer to as “sad girl pasta” because it’s my ideal comfort food). I take some liberties with it and it changes slightly every time I make it (sometimes upping the garlic, or adding a leafy green like cavolo nero), but here’s a good version of that recipe if you’re not sure where to start. I also experimented with a ricotta, lemon and spinach sauce when I was back in Canada this summer and my mom enjoyed it so much I think it’s now officially a family favourite. I use this recipe as a base, but at the stage where you add the red pepper flakes I also throw in a minced clove or two of garlic. As well, I reduce the amount of ricotta to 1 cup as I don’t like it too heavy and I add extra lemon zest. The key here is to reserve some of the pasta water you cooked the noodles in (as they say, pasta water is liquid gold), which you should add to the pan at the end to loosen up the sauce and get a rich, creamy delicious meal!
There you have it! Another Spilt Milk done! If you have any podcast or recipe requests you’d like me to write about, send me a message. As always, I’d love to hear from you. And if you’ve been enjoying this newsletter so far, why not tell one friend (or an enemy, I’m not picky) about Spilt Milk? Word of mouth is still such a valuable way to draw people in and I would be so, so grateful for the support! Alright, that’s it for me. Go eat a few plates of pasta and be careful not to crack your teeth while you’re at it (or do - like I said it really did spice up my week).
Sending love,
Arielle